The moment I stepped off the train at 6:30am at the PKS Zakopane station after a nine hour train journey from Warsaw (only 56 zloty one way) excitement rushed through me. I love exploring new places and while the stories I heard weren't all positive, I liked the smell and what was awaiting me during my three night stay. I couldn't wait to start climbing mountains and discovering new peaks. There was so much to do and see and so little time. People advertised available rooms as people departed the train, we managed to quickly snagged one even though there was no rush, there were plenty available. The place was about 1.5km from the PKS Zakopane and up a hill. I didn't mind, we were there for an active holiday, the daily walk up and down the hill would be a great warm up and cool down for what was ahead of us.
After settling, and stopping off for breakfast at one of the Karchma's (Inn) in Krupówki, we decided to go on our first mountain climb. We did take the rail (30 zloty) to the Kasprowy Wierch and decided that we would make our way down on foot. The views were spectacular even for the unfortunate fog. Luck was on our side that we hadn't walked in both directions because we would have got stuck halfway down in the middle of a storm and downpour. We made it in time before the rain really pelted down and returned into town to purchase some very (un)trendy plastic rain coats that were more like garbage bags with holes cut out for the head and arms but it worked and only cost 5 zloty, most of the tourists were parading in an array of colours – blue, green, pink, yellow, red and orange. It did look quite funny but than again the alternative was getting saturated because an umbrella would be useless.
The second day we headed to Morskie Oko (Marine Eye), for an 8 zloty bus ride we were there within thirty minutes lining up to follow the other hundreds of tourists keen to enjoy the sites regardless of the weather. The entry fee to the national park was 4.40 zloty. Instead of following the easy winding but flat cemented road for 9km to Morskie Oko, we decided on taking another route towards the 'Dolina Pięcu Stawów (The Valley of the Five Ponds), which was a two hour walk up hill. We didn't realise how uphill it was until we reached the last forty minutes of our journey and it was a steep climb up a set of stairs made of rock and stone. With the rain falling, the mist blocking our view we were a little worried as to what was awaiting us at the top. But we had come so far and there was no going back now. Each step higher seemed harder and harder, there seemed to be no end. At times it felt like we were the only ones doing this walk, it was rare to pass one person let alone a group. That was at least until we reached the top. We had made it 1670m to the Valley of the Five Ponds. We were there, but because of the fog we couldn't actually see any of the ponds, and from what I've heard and seen on pictures, it rather lovely. After a hot cup of tea with lemon we decided to keep going, this time back in the direction of Morskie Oko. This time it was a two hour climb down with some hills thrown in between. Following a group, we weren't alone and I felt a little bit safer. With such uncertain weather the last thing I wanted was to be alone in the mountains. Two hours and twenty minutes later we were in Morskie Oko. The unfortunate or maybe fortunate thing about the place is that you can not go into the water. It's forbidden. No swimming, fishing or boating allowed and that's what keeps the water so clear. You can see the bottom and it's incredibly clean. Definitely worth a visit. There's even a bar/restaurant where you can enjoy a meal or hot drink during your journey. All round we wandered around for about 8 hours.
On the third day it was overcast and raining once again. Rather disappointing since we only had four days and three nights. However, no amount of rain was going to deter us from seeing some more sites. The plan was to visit Gubałówka and than spend an hour or so at the Aquapark on Jagielońska Street (turn right at the PKS Zakopane). If it wasn't for the fog once again, we would have had marvellous views of Zakopane. We enjoyed tea, coffee and a delicious apple pie with whipped cream, strawberry ice cream and poured over with chocolate sauce. Yummy.
For me, the Aquapark was rather disappointing. Firstly, it was crowded and overrated. Changing rooms, lockers and showers were unisex which for some people may cause a degree of uncomfortable feelings. Lockers didn't work properly and there was really no room to swim. Any designated lanes for swimming were being used up by kids playing games, making lots of noise and splashing about. Swimming laps was out of the question. We did enjoy fifteen minutes in the thermal pool outside, with the outside temp. at about 14 degrees and the water at 30 degree, it was pleasant.
We decided to check out the sauna to ease the muscle aches from the previous day. There were a few to choose from, ranging from very hot and dry, to warm and humid, a cold room and a relaxation room. For me, it would have been better value for money to pay for one hour in the solarium (about 18 zloty or 0.60zl per minute depending on the entry option). It's definitely great for children who want to play around a bit, there's a few pools -two indoor and one thermal outdoor, a few spas which were heavily packed with people, and slides for the kids and teenagers. They have full day packages that include pool entry, changing rooms and sauna for 60 zloty per day or 18 zloty per hour for adults and 12 zloty for children.
Finally on the day we were leaving the sun decided to show up. We were pleased that we managed to get at least one day of sunshine. After breakfast in our room and checking out, we took our baggage to the 'baggage hold' area at the PKS and left it there for the day (about 5 zloty per baggage). Strolling around the streets we talked, checked out the architecture and watched how the city prepared for the Tour de Pologne that was arriving that afternoon. We saw the ski jumps, than moved on to the main tourist strip, Krupówki to do some souvenir shopping, have our last dinner in Zakopane and browse through the shops for the remainder of the day before we had to get on the train.
Zakopane is a fantastic place for the traveller after a relaxing escape, an active retreat, or a party getaway. Zakopane has something to offer every traveller, regardless or age or gender. It's definitely one of the places to see when visiting Poland.
Exchange rate as at 8.8.09 – 1 Euro = 4.11 zloty
1 USD = 2.90 zloty
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